|Barefaced and unretouched.|
Step 1: Concealer
It's quite ironic to use concealer on a look that piles on the dark shadow, but, well, how's that shadow supposed to stand out when it's surrounded by that gray-blue under-eye circle? So concealer it is. I've stared using Clinique All About Eyes liquid concealer in Light Petal because it's lighter to apply than my old stick-type concealer (meaning putting it on doesn't involve pulling at my under-eye area, which is the greatest cause of wrinkles EVER.) I put a teeny tiny bit - and I do mean tiny, because this stuff covers up for days and too much will give you weird raccoon eyes - on my hand and lightly dab it on my under-eye and lids with a concealer brush (also Clinique).
Step 2: Work on the eyes
It's a smokey eye look so 80% of the work's here, girls. You'll need your eye make up -- preferrably charcoal or black, a lighter gray and a highlighting silver or white -- but since I don't have my ginormous palette with me, these tiny charcoal and white sections (Wet n' Wild Lotus Marine Mineral Eyeshadow) will do. You'll also need two brushes: a precision eyeshadow brush (slightly angled; I love my reasonably priced Ever Bilena one!) and a shading brush. It can be a sponge-tip like mine or something with a broader base, just think of something that'll help blend the colors later on.
Taylor Momsen circles for another day.
OK, here's something that's also crucial but I forgot to photograph (D'OH!). Add a tiny bit of powder to the tip of your precision brush and, using the pointiest bit of the brush, add a line on your lower lash line. Try to move the brush as close to the lower lashes as possible. For more staying power, dampen the point of the brush with a moist towelette before dabbing in the eyeshadow.
Step 2.B Highlight
Next, take your blending / shading brush, dab on some of that white/silver shadow/highlighter and apply from the crease of your eyelid till just below the brow bone. Once you've got a nice amount there, start blending it into the dark eyeshadow base.
This creates a fade-out effect from the dark lashline to the light browbone. It's more refined/less goth-y.
Step 2.C - Define
Use kohl or black eyeliner to line your lower eyelid, your inner-upper eyelid and of course your upper eyelid-eyelid. Think of the black makeup radiating from your eye outward -- the darkest bits closest to the eyeball and the lightest, farthest. That's why it's important to line the inner-upper-eyelid so all gaps are sealed, so to speak.
Step 3: The rest of your face
The eyes are the focal point here so everything else should be light and understated in comparison. A strong lip with strong eyes might work for evening, but can veer wildly into...erm...Lady of the Night kind of thing, so balance is key to making this work for day time.
Liked this tutorial? Check out my other posts: Faking a Good Night's Rest and the Natural Look.
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