Wednesday, November 9, 2011

The Make-up Post: Smokey and the bandit

As promised, here's a quick smokey eye make up tutorial that's office-appropriate yet still slightly punky. Best for: dark circle days when you lack sleep and want to maximize your God-given under-eye circles; when you're in a bad mood; when you've been listening to too much Ramones; days that need a little drama and thunder.

Barefaced and unretouched.
Let's begin!

Step 1: Concealer

It's quite ironic to use concealer on a look that piles on the dark shadow, but, well, how's that shadow supposed to stand out when it's surrounded by that gray-blue under-eye circle? So concealer it is. I've stared using Clinique All About Eyes liquid concealer in Light Petal because it's lighter to apply than my old stick-type concealer (meaning putting it on doesn't involve pulling at my under-eye area, which is the greatest cause of wrinkles EVER.) I put a teeny tiny bit - and I do mean tiny, because this stuff covers up for days and too much will give you weird raccoon eyes - on my hand and lightly dab it on my under-eye and lids with a concealer brush (also Clinique).

 Tap tap tap and blend blend blend until it fades effortlessly into the skin.

Step 2: Work on the eyes

It's a smokey eye look so 80% of the work's here, girls. You'll need your eye make up -- preferrably charcoal or black, a lighter gray and a highlighting silver or white -- but since I don't have my ginormous palette with me, these tiny charcoal and white sections (Wet n' Wild Lotus Marine Mineral Eyeshadow) will do. You'll also need two brushes: a precision eyeshadow brush (slightly angled; I love my reasonably priced Ever Bilena one!) and a shading brush. It can be a sponge-tip like mine or something with a broader base, just think of something that'll help blend the colors later on.

Start by patting the darkest eyeshadow on your eyelid, from lashline to the crease. Pat it on a downward motion to establish the color and really get a rich pigment base.Don't worry about getting it perfectly down since we're going to blend later on, but if you're doing this for the first time try not to go past the crease and go into scary bruja territory.
Sorry for the dorky angle. Anyway. You see what I mean? Lashline to crease only. Save the goth-y Taylor Momsen circles for another day.

OK, here's something that's also crucial but I forgot to photograph (D'OH!). Add a tiny bit of powder to the tip of your precision brush and, using the pointiest bit of the brush, add a line on your lower lash line. Try to move the brush as close to the lower lashes as possible. For more staying power, dampen the point of the brush with a moist towelette before dabbing in the eyeshadow.

Step 2.B Highlight

Now wipe off your eyeshadow brush and add a teeny bit of your white or silver shadow or highlighter to the tip of the brush, then apply from the inner corner of your eye to the middle of the lashline. Why? Just do it, it looks good. Oh all right - it gives off a shimmery, dewy effect to counterbalance all that black.

Next, take your blending / shading brush, dab on some of that white/silver shadow/highlighter and apply from the crease of your eyelid till just below the brow bone. Once you've got a nice amount there, start blending it into the dark eyeshadow base.

This creates a fade-out effect from the dark lashline to the light browbone. It's more refined/less goth-y.

Step 2.C - Define
Use kohl or black eyeliner to line your lower eyelid, your inner-upper eyelid and of course your upper eyelid-eyelid. Think of the black makeup radiating from your eye outward -- the darkest bits closest to the eyeball and the lightest, farthest. That's why it's important to line the inner-upper-eyelid so all gaps are sealed, so to speak.

Finish off the look with a coat of mascara.

Step 3: The rest of your face
The eyes are the focal point here so everything else should be light and understated in comparison. A strong lip with strong eyes might work for evening, but can veer wildly into...erm...Lady of the Night kind of thing, so balance is key to making this work for day time.
 Sweep a pink or peachy blush...

Add a pale pink or nude lipstick or even just bare lip gloss...

Add a second coat of mascara to really bring out that sooty, inky black look we're going for...

And we're done!! See it's actually quite understated and perfectly applicable to the workplace. Just the right hint of thunder in the eyes, yes? Here's a closer look at our handiwork:

See the slight graduation from dark to light? For nighttime, instead of charcoal shadow, up the drama with a rich black pigment -- but don't forget to still highlight and define so the look appears put together -- not just an angry kid smearing eyeliner, you know?

Hope that helped, thanks for playing!!
Liked this tutorial? Check out my other posts: Faking a Good Night's Rest and the Natural Look.

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mitch said...

Kaattt, super thanks for sharing this tutorial helpful for a make-up rookie like me. Seriously I've been meaning to try smokey eyes for years na but apparently only lining up an eye liner is something I am getting good at now. Sana more make-up post pa. :)

Katrina said...

awww thanks!! I'm glad you find this helpful! honestly, trial and error lang ako so sometimes I feel "mali" yung make up ko, so this is super encouraging :) Will do more!!


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