Thursday, January 26, 2012

The Make Up Post: Retro/Hipster winged eyeliner look

Are you ready for a new make up post?!!!

Today we'll tackle that Retro / Pin-Up / Hipster make up staple with winged eyeliner and strong lips (as seen here and here), but a little toned down for the office. There's eyeliner, to be sure, but not quite as dramatic as this look from My Heartistry. Just an elegant line, as below:

Let's try a little before and after magic:

Wanna know how to get from dull and pasty to lush and tasty (lol)? Read more to find out!

This look is quite bare with the focus being on the eyelid and the lip, so the first step is to have a nice, even canvas. Get your BB Cream or foundation or powder and apply to minimize redness and get a nice smooth face. Then comes my favorite necessary part: concealer.

Using Clinique All about Eyes Concealer, I put a small amount on my hand and dab a tiny bit onto my Clinique concealer brush.  

I dab tiny dots of concealer on my under eye area and blend that further by ever so gently tapping my brush against the skin until the concealer is well-distributed. You may pull your skin a bit to get even coverage.

Fully covered:

Love your eyebrowsAgain, because this look is rather spare it benefits from stronger, more defined brows. Doing something very precise and made up like this tutorial is great, but I'm happy just to color in the sparse spots in my brows with brown Avon Eyebrow Pencil.

Now get that pencil and very gently fill in the gaps in your brows. To groom mine I use a small eyebrow brush to evenly distribute the color and comb the hairs into place.

Here's the tricksy part: getting that precise winged line using liquid liner. I've told you all before what my fave is:
Avon Extralasting Liquid Eyeliner, natch. I've also heard that gel eyeliner is virtually goofproof for this kind of looks, but I haven't tried it yet. Anyway, take your liquid eyeliner applicator, dip it and dab away excess product -- you don't want an applicator with too much goo on it as that will give you a blobby, messy line.

I included this photo to show the primo technique I use for a steady hand: 1) tilting my head back; 2) eyelids half closed; 3) rest the heels of the hand on my cheek.

I start with a very thin line from the inner corner of the eye (near the bridge of the nose) to the edge of the outer corner.

I start with a thin line because this now lets me add thickness later on. Here I'm adding a thicker line to the center of my eye.

See the difference:

Now do the other eye. Another tricky prospect, I know. This time I rest the outer part of my hand (near the pinky) on my cheek for steadier application.

Defining the eyeYou've got your winged eyeliner down -- great! Now it's time to fill in the gaps with a pencil eyeliner. This is Maybelline Unstoppable Black Eyeliner.
I use it to line the inner-upper rim of my eyelids (called tightlining)...

And the inner rim of my lower eyelid as well.

And here we are! A subtle retro eye look. (Yeah I know I smudged a bit on the left eye. Let that be a lesson: resist the urge to blink for at least five seconds after applying your liquid eyeliner, but if you DO get a smudge, never fear: a moist Q-tip takes care of that easily.)

But wait there's more!The eyes are just half the battle! Think about your cheeks...

Because this look requires strong lips I'd rather not have overtly pink blush, which will compete with the lips and tend to make one look all red. So for this look I just dab a teeny bit of bronzer and sweep it onto the apples of my cheeks.

"Strong lip" this and "Strong lip" that -- finally I get to show you what I mean!

I start with lipliner for a defined, precise mouth. This is Avon Glimmersticks Lip Liner in Red Brick (D450). 

Remember to trace inside your lips, not outside. You can line the outside for full lips, but that can be tricky and look clownish if done wrong, so stay safe and color inside the lines (just like in Kindergarten!)

Then smack your lips together to blend.

 Now it's time for my lip color. I could go with a strong, bright red for an evening look (like here), but I want to tone it down a bit and not be so va-va-voom at the office, so I went with a coral shade: Avon Ultra Color Rich Mega Impact Lipstick.

Which I apply in the normal way...

Add two coats of mascara to finish the look off (wait three minutes between coats to dry the mascara and seriously lengthen your lashes) and you're done!

Retro-tastic, Pin-Up-eriffic (yet work-appropriate) winged liner and red lips, woot!

Like this post? Check out my other make up tutorials in my ebook, The Thrifty Mom's Guide to Style! Carry style and makeup advice on your reader, phone or tablet at just $0.99 via ($2.99 for Asia Pacific).

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mitch said...

Iggy i super love this post, marami akong nakuha tips especially sa eye lining part. isa kasi talaga sa mga problem ko ang smudges with sephora eyeliner and kumakalat sya sa lower eyelid.

Katrina said...

Thanks Mitch! I also experimented with different liquid eyeliners to get the one I was most comfortable using. Dati I tried from Face Shop parang pen applicator siya, pero di kami vibes - makalat and mahirap gamitin! Nadiscover ko na maganda yung brush type liner sa Watson's pa of all places, hehehe. Then itong Avon ok din. :D

Pauline Reyes said...

Thanks for the tips! I had a hard time filling in the gaps when I followed your instructions, do you have better ways in doing it? XD
Thanks a lot! :)
~Pauline @Kallony

Katrina said...

Hi Pauline, important thing is to have a steady hand so rest the base of your palm or side of your hand on your cheek. Start with a thin line as close as possible to your lashes and then add on from there. Finally tightline your eyes to close the gaps. (More on tightlining here: Thanks Pauline! Hope this helps!!


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